El ocaso del verano es una fecha muy señalada, no por el fin de las altas temperaturas ni por el fin del periodo vacacional para una gran mayoría, sino por la expectante llegada de un producto de “culto” para los amantes de la gastronomía  y la naturaleza: las setas y las trufas.

Con los primeros rayos del otoño y las frecuentes lluvias, estos hongos efímeros y de carácter temporal empiezan a rasgar la superficie de los bosques y pinares en busca del clima húmedo característico de la fecha, y tan apreciado por ellos.

Por su gran diversidad y su condición fugaz, los hongos se convierten en un producto muy valorado en estos días y con un fuerte arraigamiento en la sociedad. Año a año, más son las personas que llenan los bosques con ansiosas cestas por ser colmadas con las más grandiosas setas o portadoras de las más voluminosas trufas. Esto conduce a un sinfín variopinto de tratamientos culinarios en función de la región y el tipo de seta.

En este post se desentrañará los perfectos maridajes entre setas y vino. Al igual que éstos últimos, las setas poseen una infinidad de sabores, olores y  texturas, que combinan a la perfección con unas variedades de uva, y otras realzan su sabor según qué proceso de elaboración tiene el vino. Hay que tener en cuenta que ninguno de los dos destaque por encima del otro. Se realizará un resumen de los tipos de setas y el proceso culinario que mayor potencie su sabor y el tipo de uva o vino más recomendado para su degustación.

Amanita Caesarea

De textura suave y carnosa, presenta un olor muy aromático, parecido al de la leche de coco o a avellanas verdes, posee un sabor seco y tánico. La elaboración más recomendable es en carpaccio, para fomentar el sabor fresco del sotobosque bajo. La variedad de uva más apropiada es una que sea aromática y joven,  una blanca Verdejo como Finca Constancia Parcela 52 o una Tempranillo con maceración carbónica para conseguir un vino tinto afrutado, Finca Constancia Parcela 23 sería perfectos para este caso.

Amanita Caesarea

Amanita Caesarea

Níscalo  o Nícalo

Posee una estructura leñosa y seca, con un color anaranjado y un recuerdo en el olor a la piel de zanahoria, a hoja de pino o de achicoria y a bosque húmedo. Tiene un sabor más áspero y “enmohecido” que el resto, muy sabroso. Los tratamientos culinarios para potenciar más su sabor, y conseguir el efecto Maillard tan característico en ellos, son salteados o a la brasa. El maridaje óptimo sería un blanco joven floral o con algo de fermentación en barrica, un rosado afrutado o un vino tinto joven a partir de uvas con mucho sabor y aromas como la  Syrah. La gama Altozano, Altozano blanco o Altozano Tempranillo – Syrah combinarían a la perfección con esta seta.

Níscalos

Níscalos

Boletus Edulis

Esta seta tan conocida y utilizada por cocineros de todo el mundo presenta una textura blanda y tierna, con aromas a hongos y a frutos secos. Tiene un sabor láctico, por lo que la convierte en perfecta para realizar salsas, cremas y acompañamientos. Para este tipo de elaboración las setas agradecen una combinación de vinos más maduros, la aparición de una sensación más melosa en boca agradece un vino con tanino que limpie la boca. Serían perfectos vinos con cierta crianza en madera y de tanacidad natural.  Hay un gran abanico de posibles variedades de uva como por ejemplo Tempranillo, Merlot, Graciano, Syrah o Cabernet Sauvignon, entre otras. La elección perfecta Finca Constancia Parcela 12, monovarietal Graciano y con una crianza en barrica de 8 meses.

 

Boletus

Boletus Edulis

Colmenilla

Tiene un sabor dulce que contrasta con su olor a hoja seca y a corteza de avellana. Su textura blanda rugosa acompaña muy bien al foie, que le aporta consistencia y potencia su sabor. Unas colmenillas rellenas de foie necesitan blancos aromáticos y a la vez con tanino. Finca Constancia Parcela 52, un Verdejo fermentado en barrica y de buena estructura pueden ser una buena elección.

Colmenillas

Colmenilla

Trompeta de los muertos

Característica por su color ennegrecido y con forma de trompeta boca arriba. De textura blanda y sabor dulce, posee un olor a especies, como los cominos. La preparación más recomendable para esta seta es la plancha o un salteado rápido, aderezado únicamente con un poquito de sal, para no contrarrestar el sabor propio con otros acompañamientos. Su maridaje perfecto es un tinto joven con poca maduración, de uva Merlot o un Tempranillo. También acompañan muy bien los vinos de variedades de uva como Palomino Fino o Manzanilla.

Trompeta de los Muertos

Trompeta de los Muertos

El mundo de la Trufa

Aunque haremos un post únicamente dedicado al mundo de la trufa, es inevitable mencionarla aquí. Existen más de treinta tipos diferentes de este hongo, hoy hablaremos la que se recolecta ene esta época. Las trufas se encuentran por debajo de la superficie del suelo, a unos 20 cm de profundidad, encontrarlas es muy complicado y su sabor difícil de olvidar. De ahí su gran valor por todos los amantes de la cocina y la naturaleza.

La trufa negra se recolecta de noviembre a marzo, con corteza piramidal de color negra, de textura crocante y granulosa, de sabor amargo y un olor inconfundible. Difícil de explicar, con toques de hojarasca, humus orgánico, tierra, avellana, incluso recuerdos a gas. Su tratamiento culinario es en la mayoría de los casos en crudo, aromatizando platos. El maridaje tiene que ser un vino con estructura, un vino concentrado y con gran aroma, que contrarreste el potente olor de la trufa, ya sea por la fruta, la madera o ambas. La variedad de uva más conveniente para estos casos es la Petit Verdot y la Syrah. Las dos con una fragancia extraordinaria y una evolución magnífica en barrica.  Un maridaje perfecto sería con Altos de la Finca, reúne todas las características apropiadas para acompañar a cualquier plato con trufa. Sus aromas a chocolates oscuros y arándanos que se integran con las flores violetas compensan los aromas intensos de la trufa, convirtiéndolo en un formidable consorte de este maravilloso hongo.

Sea como fuere y al tratarse de una ciencia empírica, la recomendación es siempre experimentar cada uno las diferentes reacciones con las sensaciones de cada seta.

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